Jeff is reclaiming his unique digital identity with a sense of clarity.

2011

Concrete on Crack

Concrete on Crack

© 2013 Jeff Thomann, (aka Mastermesh)

This digital photo collection of bricks is available for purchase now at Turbosquid. This collection is great for pulling textures from for your various 3d projects.

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Brick Collection

Bricks 1-2-2011 Collection:

© 2013 Jeff Thomann, (aka Mastermesh)

This digital photo collection of bricks is available for purchase now at Turbosquid. This collection is great for pulling textures from for your various 3d projects.


2.1.2011 Winter Zip


Various Photos shot in February, 2011 during the blizzard in Missouri.

These images are available at http://www.turbosquid.com/FullPreview/Index.cfm/ID/708605


A few scans…

A few sketches and acrylic paintings I’ve started the last while. I don’t consider Drips an Acrylic Landscape done, but do consider Bottomless Landscape Done, and the pen and ink sketches are just doodles.

Live
Live

Drips
Drips

Bottomless Landscape
Bottomless Landscape

10.25.2011
10.25.2011

10.24.2011
10.24.2011

Acrylic Landscape
Acrylic Landscape

11.21.2011
11.21.2011


Giving up on encaustic painting til the weather is warmer.

I’m giving up on encaustic painting til the weather is warmer.  I have to have a window open to get some circulation going, and it’s just way too cold to be doing that at the moment.


11/21/2011 morning speed model – aircraft

Speed Model 11/21/2011 – Time took from about 5:00 AM – 6:23 or so.  Recorded video around 6:25 AM.  I’ll go back and finish it later. Trying to do a speed challenge like this daily til I get better at 3d modelling, and have some stuff to put on Turbosquid besides my texture photos.  If camstudio didn’t take so much ram/cpu usage, I’d actually try recording the modelling process as I work…  Did a 10 minute completely blind contour drawing before this.  Not sure if I’ll scan it and upload, but might later.  Learned to do that reading the Drawing on the Right side of the brain.  I think it’s a nice way to enter ‘r-mode’ before taking on something like this speed modeling stuff, etc.

 


Made a lightbox today! :)

Just made a light box today. Had several 11″x7″ hard board sheets that I was originally going to use to draw on or paint on. Still have many of those for that but 5 less now because they are now my new light box… amazing what duct tape, hard board, and an old light off of a broken drawing desk, and a sheet of old plexi glass from many years ago can do when used together. 😉

Ended up taking the sharp edge of one of my many chisels since I used it as a plexi-glass cutter. It worked well though and I have plenty of other chisels. Hopefully the 60w lamp won’t melt the plexi. As long as I don’t make my sessions using it super long I don’t think that’ll be a problem. If it is, plexi is easy to replace. I probably should be using glass instead of plexi but since I’m planning on using a lot of pointillism techniques that will require a lot of banging a pencil against it I figure plexi is better since it’ll hold up where glass would just break. Thinking about using crayon/color pencils on this and then using that as carbon paper sort of to transfer the image on to the boards as base layer/underpainting for the encaustic panels, burnishing the back of the paper as it lays on the encaustic, etc. I tried testing a little today with a transfer bit on my wood burner but that didn’t work at all since the heat was too hot and caused the wax to actually melt in to the paper, so got to do this cool on cool, no heat applied. In theory it should work, somewhat. Still not sure if the encaustic and color pencil waxes will merge/melt together well but in theory they should I think. I think wax pencils have a parraffin type wax in them. If it doesn’t work well I may have to use crayons/wax pencils instead of the color pencils. Not sure I like that idea though since I want pigment in this and most crayons have way more wax than pigment. Color pencils are more leaning the other way a bit.

I made the light box since I think it’ll be easier process of photo to paint surface transfer that will work better than the crazy poke holes in pictures technique and pounce afterwards that I was planning on using. Still may use that sometimes, but it’s a really non-drawing type of thing so I’m not sure it suits my style/technique so well.